In 2009, Bon Appetit published a recipe for chicken al mattone, or, chicken under a brick. The author of the recipe was Sfoglia's former chef Ron Suhanosky, who counted it as one of his signature dishes (the other is pappardelle alla Bolognese). I would not be exaggerating if I said that this is possibly the most delicious chicken dish in NYC. (I rarely write about forgettable or unappetizing meals, and I realize that this blog is full of praise and superlatives, but last night at Sfoglia actually left me speechless.)
Sfoglia is a lovely little trattoria across from the 92Y. Murano crystal chandeliers shed an amber light over a stucco-walled room with rustic, communal wooden tables. The ambiance is casually elegant. Sfoglia has been open for six years, and the restaurant fills quickly with appreciative locals and 92Y subscribers. Last night, My mother and I waited at the entrance for a while as the hostess gracefully dealt with an apparently frustrating phone call; a potential diner was miffed at the lack of available reservations.
We sat at the end of a wooden table adorned with apricot-colored roses, and were soon presented with fresh bread so hot that steam emanated from it. This crusty bread had a soft, moist interior, making it a good vehicle for the dish of of olive oil served with it.
A chilled cucumber soup with salmon roe sounded season-appropriate, but we decided to split an appetizer portion of the pappardelle alla bolognese. (If this was an appetizer, I'm almost afraid to see what the dinner portion was.) A rich sauce of beef, veal, pork and lamb with a sprinkling of fresh parmigiano coated wide al dente noodles, and there was plenty of meat and sauce left over for sopping the bread in.
Lamb, chicken, fish, skate, what do we appreciate? I'm sure we would have loved all of it, but we thought the chicken sounded so tasty that we both ordered it. The half-chicken, marinated in olive oil, rosemary, thyme, and garlic, served with a lemon wedge, was bursting with flavor. The seared, crisp, crackly skin enveloped moist, fragrant white and dark meat. The manager informed us that the secret is in the searing; some restaurants do not wait until the pan is hot enough and lay the brick too early. (In her spare time, she told us, she actually visited various restaurants in NYC that serve chicken under a brick, and all of the other preparations paled in comparison.) I ordered mine with the advertised dried, crushed red pepper, while my mother opted to omit it.
Desserts were another revelation. Mint chocolate-chip gelato was obviously made with fresh mint, while wine cracker gelato had a savory hint in its sweetness. The server had also told us about a special dessert that had to be ordered at the beginning of the meal. If the chicken had got my tongue, this dessert indeed left me completely speechless. An open-faced warm tart, filled with the freshest ripe peach slices and tart blackberries, gave off a heavenly buttery aroma. The juice from the summer fruit seeped into the sweet biscuit crust base, while the crust on the sides could be broken off and eaten like a cookie. Atop this masterpiece lay two scoops of the homemade wine cracker gelato. I finished much more of this than I should have.
I was really unprepared for such delight at a neighborhood Italian restaurant on the Upper East Side. It really says something when my mother, who eats no dark meat, finished her chicken in its entirety.
Trattoria Sfoglia: 135 East 92nd St., (212) 831-1402.
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
Sunday, August 14, 2011
East End Kitchen
Almost nothing pleases me more than a cozy neighborhood restaurant in the middle of a residential block. Two-week-old East End Kitchen, the successor to the defunct Le Boeuf A La Mode, is right around the corner from me, and I had the good fortune to celebrate my aunt's seventieth birthday there tonight. (I don't know if it was the restaurant's good fortune to serve us, as my aunt has a laundry list of don't-eat-this-and-don't-eat-thats, and my 19-month-old prefers running to sitting, but we certainly had a swell time.)
East End Kitchen is a seasonal, sustainable enterprise that would be right at home on the North Shore. The appetizers include watermelon and goat cheese salad, crab cakes with fennel, and chilled tomato soup, and the main courses focus on simple but satisfying meat dishes (chicken with potatoes and shallots, duck and cherries, pork with peaches) with a sprinkling of seafood entrees.
I have to hand it to the servers, as our party presented some unique challenges. (I almost feel as though I should post a public apology.) First of all, we arrived 10 minutes before the restaurant was due to open, and the staff was having a meeting. No matter, we were graciously seated, as it was raining heavily. A delightful basket of mini-baguettes with unsalted butter was brought to the table. My son threw his bread on the floor. (I picked it up.) More baguettes soon arrived.
My aunt wanted lettuce with mayonnaise for an appetizer. She was presented with a nice plate of mixed greens. "This isn't lettuce," she complained. "It is a variety of lettuce leaves," patiently explained the waitress. "What were you looking for?" It was obvious that my aunt was expecting a plate of pale iceberg leaves. The waitress apologized, explaining that the restaurant did not have any romaine or iceberg and mostly focused on seasonal, local produce.
My aunt also has an aversion to all meats served with sweet accompaniments, which nixed the pork and the duck. As I have written before, she is also severely allergic to pepper. Fortunately, a perfectly rare New York strip steak in a wine sauce with velvety mashed potatoes, green beans and mushrooms gave her nothing to complain about. A burger topped with Gruyere and heirloom tomatoes pleased my mother, and a side of French fries placated my son. The hand-cut fries were outrageously good and crispy, and they passed my son's seal of approval. For myself, I had sort of an interesting non-Italian take on pasta: Swiss chard tortellini with chervil topped with melted cheddar in an unadorned cream sauce.
Serendipitea City Harvest black tea scented with vanilla and orchids was a fragrant accompaniment to a bowl of chocolate mousse, pecans and raspberry coulis. I would like to try the cherry clafouti or the frozen blueberry souffle, but that will have to wait for another visit.
I commend East End Kitchen for gentle, good-natured service, a concise menu of inviting choices, and an uplifting atmosphere.
East End Kitchen: 539 East 81st St., (212) 879-0450.
East End Kitchen is a seasonal, sustainable enterprise that would be right at home on the North Shore. The appetizers include watermelon and goat cheese salad, crab cakes with fennel, and chilled tomato soup, and the main courses focus on simple but satisfying meat dishes (chicken with potatoes and shallots, duck and cherries, pork with peaches) with a sprinkling of seafood entrees.
I have to hand it to the servers, as our party presented some unique challenges. (I almost feel as though I should post a public apology.) First of all, we arrived 10 minutes before the restaurant was due to open, and the staff was having a meeting. No matter, we were graciously seated, as it was raining heavily. A delightful basket of mini-baguettes with unsalted butter was brought to the table. My son threw his bread on the floor. (I picked it up.) More baguettes soon arrived.
My aunt wanted lettuce with mayonnaise for an appetizer. She was presented with a nice plate of mixed greens. "This isn't lettuce," she complained. "It is a variety of lettuce leaves," patiently explained the waitress. "What were you looking for?" It was obvious that my aunt was expecting a plate of pale iceberg leaves. The waitress apologized, explaining that the restaurant did not have any romaine or iceberg and mostly focused on seasonal, local produce.
My aunt also has an aversion to all meats served with sweet accompaniments, which nixed the pork and the duck. As I have written before, she is also severely allergic to pepper. Fortunately, a perfectly rare New York strip steak in a wine sauce with velvety mashed potatoes, green beans and mushrooms gave her nothing to complain about. A burger topped with Gruyere and heirloom tomatoes pleased my mother, and a side of French fries placated my son. The hand-cut fries were outrageously good and crispy, and they passed my son's seal of approval. For myself, I had sort of an interesting non-Italian take on pasta: Swiss chard tortellini with chervil topped with melted cheddar in an unadorned cream sauce.
Serendipitea City Harvest black tea scented with vanilla and orchids was a fragrant accompaniment to a bowl of chocolate mousse, pecans and raspberry coulis. I would like to try the cherry clafouti or the frozen blueberry souffle, but that will have to wait for another visit.
I commend East End Kitchen for gentle, good-natured service, a concise menu of inviting choices, and an uplifting atmosphere.
East End Kitchen: 539 East 81st St., (212) 879-0450.
Thursday, August 11, 2011
Sweets News
Today's Sweets News focuses on treats both French and Japanese.
- Le Moulin A Cafe. The former La Mediterrannee has transformed itself into a French bakery, complete with macarons, pains au chocolat, and shelves full of imported French butter cookies. I stopped by there today for a croissant and a La Colombe cafe au lait. Only downside: the place refuses credit cards for purchases under $10. (1439 York Ave., 212-288-5088.)
- KAI Sweets. I am so excited about a present of artisanal Japanese puddings I received from a friend who visited KAI Sweets at Mitsuwa Marketplace. The little glass jars contain flavors like sweet black sesame. When I run out, I'll make a trip out to New Jersey to replace them. (Mitsuwa Marketplace, 595 River Road, Edgewater, NJ, 201-840-4050.)
Thursday, August 04, 2011
Hill Country Fried Chicken
One of my guiltiest summer pleasures is a box of three "Texas tenders" (huge battered chicken fingers with a choice of dipping sauces - I get the buttermilk ranch) at Hill Country Chicken. (I don't know what it is about summer that makes me want to subsist on fried foods and barbecue, but Hill Country fulfills all these inexplicable cravings.) And now, with the free lemonade refills, it's even harder to stay away than ever. (I don't know how many refills you get, as I stopped at one, but it was perfect for the hot weather we had today.) The fresh lemonade is bracingly tart, and provides a refreshing complement to all of the rich food.
I've also enjoyed the chicken sandwich with smoked Applewood bacon and avocado, and the relatively new macaroni and cheese (the latest side is an ancho chili applesauce). But it's those Texas tenders that has me coming back for more...
Hill Country Chicken: 1123 Broadway, (212) 257-6446.
Fairway To Go!
Great news for gourmets on the go... on Monday, August 8, the new Upper East Side Fairway gets a new companion: Fairway Café to Go (240 East 86th St.). Baked goodies, sandwiches, and fresh-roasted coffee are on the menu from 7 a.m.-10 p.m. One special new baked item is the Scarborough herbal bread with parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme.
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